Object Analysis Practice - Gilt & Silk Exhibition at The Burrell Collection

I have had another bash at object analysis, using the 2 red petticoats of Anne of Denmark, displayed in the Burrell Collection, Glasgow.  I looked at them in detail, when I was there and made notes, but did not take any photos.  There were no postcards of them for sale, so images have been taken from the internet (Thanks to Susan Elliott's blog - she had the sense to ask when she visited the Collection, whether photos were allowed, which they are.)

Interestingly, although the images I have found of these pieces are from other people's blogs, no-one has analysed the symbolism of the flowers and animals.  Other bloggers are stitch enthusiasts, rather than symbolic researchers.

Anne of Denmark, wearing the silk petticoat.

The petticoat in a perspex case

Embroidered detail

So, during my time looking at the embroidery, I noted down all the plants I could identify, from those plants I knew and from the artwork descriptions.  I have looked up symbolism of plants, and tried to use sources which are pre-Victorian.  It still means there are various different meanings of plants, so is not guaranteed accurate, but I have done my best. I also included the animals I could see.

Bird with leaf - Peace
Caterpillar and Butterfly - Charles I and Charles II (Burrell Collection definition)
Thistles - Scotland and Passion of Christ
Strawberry - good works of the righteous
Honeysuckle - love and generosity
Periwinkle - Virgin Mary, immortality
Lily - Virgin Mary, purity
Borage - courage
Daffodil/narcissus - Triumph of divine love over death/selfishness
Columbine - white dove/holy spirit
Oakleaf and acorns - England and endurance against adversity (oak made the cross)
Pansy - thoughtfulness (pensée) (Burrell Collection définition)
Peapod - fertility (Burrell Collection definition)
Carnation - pure love
Aspen leaves - trembling for Christ's sacrifice
Open briar rose - courtly love (Burrell Collection definition)

The embroidery is stitched on crimson red silk satin.  The colour indicates it was probably dyed with cochineal, so would have been a very expensive, opulent fabric.  Added to all the stitch work and expensive dyed threads, it is reasonable to assume it was created for a Queen.  The exhibit description says it was "probably" owned by Anne of Denmark, and what I have found out makes the symbolism hang together with her story.

This is Iconic Content Analysis as I am looking at a form of artwork. Key questions are "Who says what, to whom, why, to what extent and with what effect".

Who says what:  As the garment was owned by a Queen, she is wearing it as a statement of power and affluence.  The petticoat is an expensive garment, a result of intense labour, made from the finest fabric and dye, embroidered with a huge number of symbolic images.  The symbolism of the flowers and animals listed above alludes to the Catholic faith; the desired accession to the throne of Charles I and II; the hope for the continuance of this line of monarchy; and peace.

To whom: to all the people Anne of Denmark would have seen when wearing it.  Presumably this luxurious, symbolic garment would only have been worn at significant personal and state occasions when observers would have had the knowledge to interpret it.

Why: As a clear indication of her faith and Royal loyalties.

To what extent: To a great extent to anyone who saw it. (This was prior to easy 20th century communications!)  This would include those who planned and executed the work on this garment; her household; the household of anyone who hosted her and her family/prospective in-laws (marriages were arranged in royal circles in this time).

With what effect:  It is not known when this garment was worn. She was painted wearing it, which would have extended the audience, beyond those who she met at the time. If worn during marriage negotiations, it would have given a clear indication of her desires … but this is pure speculation on my part.  If worn after marriage, it gives a clear indication of the intention to return England (and Scotland/) to a Catholic Royal lineage.

As Object Analysis is "A research technique for the objective, systematic and quantitative description of the manifest content of communication", this petticoat is a tool of communication … and what a tool!

Uses: Inferences about 1.antecedents, 2.characteristics, 3. effects of a communication.

Which data are analysed?  

From the Gilt & Silk exhibition I chose the red petticoats.

How are they defined? Not sure what this means

What is the population from which they are drawn?

In this case, the petticoats are drawn from the textile archive of the Burrell Collection.  This collection was gifted to Glasgow c1948 by a Victorian businessman, William Burrell.  He was an eminent collector across various fields: church architecture; Greek, Roman sculpture; metalwork; tapestry and textiles; furniture; artwork.  His collection was revered by many, but his collection style has been denigrated by others who labelled him as having no more discernment than a jackdaw!  This petticoat has a clear link to Scottish heritage and royal aspirations.  It is one of the largest pieces in the Collection.  The Burrell has an international reputation for the standard of its textile collection with many rare and unique pieces.

What is the context relative to the data that are analysed?

The context in which this petticoat is analysed is that of a time of considerable political instability with different factions in Christianity vying for power within Royal households across Europe (not unlike the Muslim situation today!)  The Royal households in Denmark had long held desires for sovereignty over Scotland and Anne's marriage to James I England & VI of Scotland would have given a strong link between the 2 countries.  Anne of Denmark shows she was brought up Lutheran but converted to Catholicism around 1590, the time of her marriage.  Her husband, James I/VI, who was Catholic Mary Queen of Scots son, was brought up Protestant, away from his mother.  Anne of Denmark was known for love of extravagant masques and a prominent sponsor of the arts.

What are the boundaries for the analysis?

The data I have focussed on is the symbolism of the imagery to try to identify the values communicated through a high status piece of embroidery.

I could have considered the people who made it, the process by which the fabric was dyed, the stitches chosen.  I could have considered who had owned the petticoats from Anne's death to present day, and how and why the garment had been altered. These were ignored as they are not my field of interest.

What is the target of the inferences?

That in a time of low levels of written literacy, visual and iconic symbolism was deeply important and significant to communicate power and status.